Climbing ropes are the most important tool in any vertical situation and come in different types with very precise parameters. All other equipment works in relation to the rope, which must therefore be in excellent condition and always suitable for the situation.
First of all, it must be remembered that the only ropes suitable and certified for securing a climber are dynamic ropes, which in Europe must comply with EN 892 of the European law directive 89/686/EEC and UIAA standards. These standards requires that ropes have specific physical characteristics (diameter, strength, elongation) without which they cannot be used.
Marked with the symbol 1, among the three types of ropes, single rope has the largest diameter: they can be found between 8.5mm and 11mm, and depending on their diameter, each one will be more suitable for a different situation. A rather large single rope is suitable, for example, for use in Big Wall climbing or in working on sport routes. The advantages of a single rope are its strength and the relative ease of use by the belayer, but its weight can be a downside when it needs to be transported for a long time.
On the other hand, a very thin rope should be used with greater care by the belayer (although almost all belay devices are now approved for increasingly thinner diameters), but it has the great advantage of being very fast and light. It is perfect for sport routes where the climber needs a tool that, while ensuring safety, does not hinder their performance.
They are marked with the symbol ½; they are thinner than single ropes (diameter ranging from 7.1 to 9.2 mm) and are certified to be used always in pairs with another half rope. They dominate in alpine and traditional climbing routes where the path is not regular and proceeds zigzagging or forces to overcome edges and ridges.
By alternating between the two ropes, the climber applies less friction and pressure on both, contributing to the preservation of the good condition of the rope. Any eventual fall will always be held by one rope only. Being thinner than single ropes, half ropes are also more elastic and flexible. These characteristics ensure that during a fall, the rope acts more softly on a potentially unstable anchor point, increasing the possibility that it will hold.
They are the thinnest of the three types: their diameter ranges between 7 and 8 mm. They are recognized by the infinity symbol (∞) and are used in pairs, always clipping them both at the same time on all anchor points. Their strength lies precisely in being effectively a "doubled" rope: their sum guarantees greater resistance to falls than a single rope. On the other hand, twin ropes also have the advantage of allowing longer double-rope descents, as they can be used for their entire length, and allowing the two climbers to evenly distribute the weight during the approach.
Ropes with a larger diameter give us a feeling of safety on the most demanding routes © Alexa Flower, Patagonia
Length and Weight
The weight of the rope is often directly proportional to its length: there is no point in buying a seventy-meter rope when climbing short and bouldery routes and not wanting to carry unnecessary weight. One factor that affects the weight of the rope is the weight/meter value. Naturally, the lower this value is, the lighter the rope will be for the same length.
Dynamic Elongation
It is a value that indicates the elongation of the rope in case of a fall by the lead climber. The higher this value is, the higher the risk of a dangerous fall, especially if on the first quickdraws. On the other hand, a very low value can result in more traumatic stops.
Static Elongation
It is a value to be considered when using the rope for a lot of top-roping. In fact, a relatively high value can result in descending too much every time you need to be put back on belay, while at the same time, when climbing the first part of the route, a low value avoids having to start over every time from the ground.
Stopping Force
It is the impact perceived by the climber while falling, whose energy is partly dissipated in the equipment involved in the fall, from the harness, to the last quickdraw passed, and finally to the harness and the belayer. This value determines the dynamic of the rope and is particularly important if there are extreme weight differences between the climbers, i.e., when both are very light or very heavy: a high value implies less elongation of the rope and is preferable when the weights are "substantial" and increase the kinetic energy, while a low value is more suited to light climbers. The stopping force for single ropes varies from 8 kN to 12 kN.
Number of Falls
Sport climbing ropes are all tested to withstand the five falls with a factor 1.77 prescribed by the UIAA. There is, however, a value, expressed in kN, that indicates how many falls have been withstood during testing, generally ranging from a minimum of five to a maximum of eleven. Often, a thicker diameter rope has the advantage of withstanding many more falls than a thinner one before showing the first signs of deterioration. The test is carried out with much more extreme assumptions than in a real fall: a metal mass of 80kg is attached to one end of the rope, which is anchored to a fixed point. This fall presents very low possibilities of energy dissipation, which in a real situation are "assumed" by the belayer who moves to make a fall dynamic or by the rope sliding. In practice, it is not about five "normal" falls with an optimal situation both in the placement of the last quickdraw and in the position of the climber, and with excellent protection from below, but 5 "relevant" falls as implied by a factor of .77.
We remind you that the value of tolerable falls indicated on the label refers to a new and in good condition rope; obviously, a rope that has been used a lot, even if it has not tolerated significant falls, will not have the same efficiency as a new rope.
For high performance it takes a light and handy rope! Alessandro Penna on a project in Andonno
Treatments
- Hydrophobicity
It is one of the most commonly used treatments and allows the rope not to "swell" if used in the rain, and can be applied only to the sheath of the rope, core, or both. Each rope manufacturer has its own treatment, which in any case must comply with UIAA parameters, according to which a rope is considered hydrophobic if it absorbs less than 5% of water.
- Anti-abrasion
It is designed to prevent the rope from fraying at the first contact with a sharp edge, although these are always extremely dangerous. It is often combined with characteristics of durability over time, in "complete shells" that include all the main protections that a rope can have.
- Resistance
It is a set of treatments that make the rope better resist dust, abrasions, and anything that a decline in its characteristics. The best-known and most appreciated is Unicore, which welds together the core and sheath to prevent sharp cuts with very abrasive rocks.
- Manageability
Some ropes are coated with a treatment that reduces the factor of stiffening of the rope due to wear, becoming very soft and manageable. This treatment can also be replaced by a specific weave pattern of the rope that provides the same advantages.
- Preventive unwinding
This process allows you to use the rope as it comes out of the package, without having to manually unwind it.
Sheath percentage
Very often, a higher percentage of sheath guarantees greater resistance to wear and abrasions, without adding weight to the rope. It is particularly suitable for those who climb a lot on top-rope and on new or sharp rock.
Identification of the middle of the rope
In some ropes, the identification of the middle length is absent, in many ropes it is indicated by a black mark, while in others the change of the pattern or weave of the sheath directly determines the middle of the rope. This precaution is useful when you start to shorten the worn ends of the rope; naturally, if not cut in equal measures from both ends, it can be misleading.
Use
In all the cards associated with the ropes, the ideal uses are suggested, whether for climbing, mountaineering, or ice climbing.