The climbing helmet is an extremely important tool that is often overlooked by climbers. Sometimes it's a matter of "coolness"; climbing without a helmet may seem cooler. However, sometimes the helmet we have is simply unsuitable for our head! We must know how to choose the best helmet, and in reality, it is enough to take into consideration a few parameters that make the difference. All helmets used in mountaineering and climbing must comply with European CE EN 12492 standards, which guarantees resistance to impacts.
That being said, there are obviously many different types of helmets, each with their own characteristics and strengths. All helmets can basically fall into two categories: foam helmets and hard-shell helmets.
Similarly, other considerations to make when choosing a helmet include the type of usage it will be used for, such as long routes, sport climbing, ice climbing, or other activities.
Hard-shell helmets are very efficient and resistant, great for mountain climbing. They are characterized by a complete shell, a suspension system with straps, and an inner foam, which serves to keep the helmet in place on the head. In the event of an impact, the energy is distributed to the suspension straps by the plastic shell, which absorbs part of the energy, deforming in the process. In addition to being very solid, they offer the advantage of being able to detach the foam part for separate washing. For this reason, they are often the preferred choice of climbing gyms, adventure parks, and all those places where this type of equipment is rented.
Examples: Petzl Boreo, Black Diamond Half Dome
Expanded foam helmets have unrivaled lightness and are made up of a layer of foam (often polypropylene) covered by a thin polycarbonate shell. In event of an impact, the energy is distributed very evenly by the polycarbonate coating and at the same time is absorbed by the foam's expanding ability. They are more comfortable to wear and are more ventilated, making them perfect for protecting the head in the event of direct impacts against rocks, for example in the event of a fall or an unforeseen rock jutting out. On the other hand, they are naturally less sturdy and durable over time, and require more attention during transport. The "extreme" model foam helmets is Petzl's Scirocco, which is actually single block of expanded polypropylene without any shell: so light that you forget you wearing it.
Examples: Black Diamond Vapor, Petzl Scirocco
Climbing Type
Not all helmets are created equal, and different climbing types require different helmet features. Here are some tips on choosing helmets based on the type of climbing you plan to do:
Sport climbing: For warm-weather sport climbing, you'll want a shelled foam helmet with a maximum number of vents to keep your head cool. However, for cool-weather or single-pitch sport climbingyou can go for a more affordable and durable hard shell helmets.
Ice climbing: Falling debris is a major concern in ice climbing, making a shelled-foam helmet with ventilation area ideal. This type of helmet will provide ample protection without sacrificing your comfort.
Mountaineering and multi-pitch trad climbing: When climbing for extended periods, weight and ventilation become crucial. A shelled-foam helmet would be perfect as it provides low weight and ample ventilation. Opt for a bright-colored helmet as it will help team members spot you even in whiteout conditions.